Camino Primitivo hiking guide: route map, stages & where to stay

The Camino Primitivo, the "original way", is the oldest route of the Camino de Santiago. Tradition says King Alfonso II of Asturias walked it from his capital, Oviedo, to the newly found tomb of St James in the early 9th century. It runs about 310 km from Oviedo cathedral across the mountains of western Asturias and the province of Lugo to Santiago de Compostela. Since 2015 it has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Routes of Santiago in northern Spain. Yellow arrows and the scallop shell mark the way, and most pilgrims take 12 to 14 days, sleeping in albergues (pilgrim hostels), guesthouses and small hotels.

The route

The walk starts at the Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo and heads west through green hills, crossing the Nalón at Peñaflor, to Grado, then past the monastery town of Cornellana on the Narcea to the medieval town of Salas. From Salas a long climb leads to Tineo, high above the Narcea valley, and on through quiet farmland and chestnut woods to Campiello and Borres.

Just past Borres the route divides. This guide follows the Hospitales route, the one most pilgrims take: a wild ridge between about 1,000 and 1,250 m, past the ruins of the medieval pilgrim hospices that gave it its name, to the Puerto del Palo pass and down to Montefurado, Lago and Berducedo. There are no bars, shops or treated water for about 23 km. The Pola de Allande alternative (about 28.6 km from Borres to Berducedo instead of 24.1 km, with more climbing) drops to the small town of Pola de Allande, which has beds, shops and a health centre, and then climbs to the same Puerto del Palo. Take it in snow, fog, storms or strong wind. The map and stages here show only the Hospitales route.

From Berducedo the path crosses A Mesa and drops steeply to the Salime dam on the Navia river, then climbs to Grandas de Salime. Next comes the Alto do Acebo and the border with Galicia, and A Fonsagrada, the highest town on the way. After the ruined hospice of Montouto the route continues through O Cádavo to Lugo, where you walk into the old town through the Roman walls, a World Heritage Site in their own right.

At Melide the Primitivo joins the Camino Francés. The last three stages, Melide to Arzúa, O Pedrouzo and Santiago, are shared with the Francés, so expect many more pilgrims, more services and busier albergues. Outest also has a guide to the Camino Francés, and the Camino del Norte guide covers the coastal route; pilgrims on the Norte can switch to the Primitivo by walking inland to Oviedo.

This guide splits the walk into 14 stages of about 22.0 km. The highest point is about 1,220 m on the Hospitales ridge, and the profile adds up to about 7,500 m of climbing.

Highlights

• Oviedo cathedral: the Cámara Santa and the start of the oldest Camino
• The Hospitales ridge: the most remote and beautiful day on any Camino in Spain
• The Salime reservoir: a steep descent to a 1950s dam and a long climb out
• Lugo: a walk on top of the complete Roman city walls
• A Ponte Ferreira: a medieval bridge in deep Galician countryside
• Melide: the meeting with the Francés, and its famous octopus (pulpo)

When to walk the Camino Primitivo

The best months are May, June, September and early October. July and August are warm and busy, especially after Melide, where the Francés crowds join. Many private albergues open only from March or April to October or November. In winter the Hospitales ridge, the Puerto del Palo and the Alto do Acebo can have snow and thick fog, days are short and some villages have no open bed, so the Guardia Civil advises less experienced pilgrims not to walk between November and March.

How many days do you need?

Most pilgrims take 12 to 14 days. The 14 stages in this guide follow the plan on Gronze.com, from 14 to 30 km a day. Tineo to Borres is short, so some walk on to Berducedo in one long day; others join Melide to O Pedrouzo (34 km) to finish in 13 days. The longest day is O Cádavo to Lugo (about 30 km).

Difficulty

The Primitivo is the hardest of the main Caminos. Every day climbs 250 to 900 m on paths, tracks and quiet roads, and the descents to the Salime dam and off the Hospitales ridge are steep and rocky. There is no technical ground and the waymarking is good, but you need to be fit and to carry a light pack. On the Hospitales route carry food and at least 2 litres of water, and give cows with calves and farm dogs plenty of room.

Credential, Compostela and booking

No permit is needed. You need a pilgrim credential (credencial), sold at the Oviedo albergue and cathedral, and stamps from albergues, bars and churches along the way. To receive the Compostela in Santiago you must walk at least the last 100 km, which on the Primitivo means starting in Lugo or earlier. The Pilgrim's Office (Rúa Carretas 33) is open every day from 9:00 to 19:00.

Public albergues in Asturias are municipal and small; in Galicia, from A Fonsagrada on, they belong to the Xunta network and cost €10 a night. Neither can be booked: beds go in order of arrival, one night only. Private albergues cost about €13 to €22 and most take bookings. Beds are few at Borres, Berducedo, O Cádavo and A Ponte Ferreira, so book a private bed a day ahead from May to September. Baggage-transfer services, such as the Correos one, run along the route.

Getting there and away

Oviedo has direct trains from Madrid and buses from all over Spain; Asturias Airport is about 45 km away, with buses to Oviedo. Santiago has an airport on the Camino at Lavacolla, a railway station with trains to Madrid, A Coruña and Vigo, and buses back to Oviedo.

Money and phone signal

Spain uses the euro. Cards are accepted in towns, but small albergues and village bars in Asturias often want cash, so carry enough for two days; there are cash machines in the larger towns such as Grado, Salas, Tineo, A Fonsagrada, Lugo, Melide and Arzúa. Mobile signal is good in the towns and weak or absent on parts of the Hospitales ridge and in the Allande valleys.

What to pack

A waterproof jacket and cover for your pack, warm layers for the high ridges, sun protection, light walking shoes or boots with good grip, trekking poles for the steep descents, a sleeping bag or warm liner (some public albergues give only disposable sheets and no blankets) and a first-aid and blister kit.

Safety

In an emergency call 112 from any phone. On the Hospitales ridge you can be alone for hours: check the AEMET forecast in Tineo or Borres and take the Pola de Allande route in bad weather. Walk in daylight and tell someone where you plan to sleep.